ysabetwordsmith (![[personal profile]](https://www.dreamwidth.org/img/silk/identity/user.png)
ysabetwordsmith) wrote2021-03-25 08:19 pm
ysabetwordsmith) wrote2021-03-25 08:19 pm
Dresses and Layers for Curvy Girls
Here's a thoughtful article about sewing a wardrobe based on dresses and layers for big, curvy girls.
I have some thoughts on layers from my perspective in Renaissance / fantasy / Pagan garb as well as a passing familiarity with fashion history in general. If you want to explore this further, ask your local librarian for the fashion history books. These are big, coffeetable books with lots of colorplates to show fashions in different times and places. Things you can do with dresses and layers ...
* Outer dress over inner dress.
** Usually the outer dress is fancier while the inner dress is white, unbleached, or a solid color.
** The outer dress can cover a lot of the inner dress or only some of it.
* Blazer, cardigan, duster, or bodice over dress.
** The dress can show through in places.
** The top can completely cover the dress, making it like a skirt.
** Add pockets! Blazers and cardigans often have pockets. If sewing a women's blazer, get inspiration from men's suitcoats regarding pockets, as theirs are much better.
* Apron over dress.
** This can be plain cloth to keep the nice dress cleaner.
** It can also be fancy cloth over a plain dress.
** Aprons can be half or full length.
** Add pockets! Most aprons have several, and there are often dedicated features like a pen loop. Check out gathering aprons and egg aprons.
* Dress, tunic, or top and skirt over bottoms.
** A divided underlayer lets you wear a shorter skirt or longer shirt without sacrificing comfort or modesty.
** Bloomers are sort of like loose pants. They are very practical without binding.
** Divided skirts have many names, but basically look like a skirt, concealing the fact that they have legs.
* Skirt over or under a dress. This approach can save a lot of money on expensive fabric or trim.
** Usually a patterned skirt over a plain underdress.
** Overskirts can be raised in one or more areas to show the underskirt, usually tucked into waistband or belt.
** An underskirt can be plain with just a fancy bottom of lace or trim.
** Some skirts are made from tatters or ribbons.
** Skirts are among the easiest garments to fit if they have a drawstring waist, easily expanding or contracting to fit your body.
** You can also adjust the length by wearing them at different heights. Some convertible garments can be worn as a maxiskirt or minidress, a miniskirt or tube top.
** A pocket between these layers will be secret, but easily accessible through the waistbands! Use this to hide things like cash, a passport, etc. You can also drop a belt pouch between them.
* Belt or harness over dress.
** These are often used to control layers, such as making several skirts lie flat over the hips.
** They can add movement, interest, even sound effects with bells or coins.
** Belt pouches, loops, snaffle rings, etc. give you a place to secure objects.
* Loose garments are very forgiving if your body changes shape or size, or your just like free movement.
** "All garb is maternity garb!" (It's quicker to list the few fitted garments, like the cotehardie, that aren't.)
** A chemise can be used as a nightgown.
** Use drawstrings, elastic, cloak pins, belts, buttons, tucking, etc. to adjust sizing.
* Layers make temperature control much easier.
** For this purpose, choose a mix of light and heavy fabrics.
** Warm weather: cotton gauze, linen, bamboo, hemp, silk.
** Cold weather: denim, canvas, wool, corduroy, brocade, velvet.
** Few synthetics are ideal for layering. Most trap moisture, and the "wicking" ones tend to get slimy. :P However, an outer "windbreaker" layer to block wind and rain can be useful. Look for one with vents under flaps.
** Make sure you can add or remove layers easily.
* Think about where you want patterns if you wear any.
** A dress can be a single-item outfit, especially in warm weather, so not all dresses have to match.
** If you have many different patterns in your layers, it's harder to match than if you choose a few favorites (stripes, plaids, florals, polka dots, etc.).
** If you keep patterns to one or two places (cardigans, overdresses, or overskirts) then it's easier to match than if you have them in every layer.
** Buying more than one piece in exactly the same pattern makes it much easier to mix and match, as long as you have solids in the same or compatible colors. Look for racks where you can find a cardigan, dress, blouse, skirt, and/or pants that match.
* Think about what colors you want. It helps to compose a palette (or several) for your wardrobe.
** Make sure you have plenty of base colors that go with most or all your clothes. These are usually neutrals, and it's easier to match if you stick to ivory-tan-brown (for warm skin tones) or white-gray-black (for cool skin tones) than mixing warm and cool neutrals, although most neutrals look fine together. However, some people choose a different base; I had one teacher who dressed entirely in purple.
** Think about what accent colors you want. If you stick to similar types (e.g. pastels, earth tones, jewel tones) then it's easier to mix and match than if you have colors of very different types.
** Another approach is to make subsets of clothes that go together, so you might have autumn clothes in earth tones and spring clothes in pastels. This also works with accessories, so you could have sets of gold and silver jewelry, or scarves matched with shoes or socks in several colors. Different sets of accessories can make the same plain dress look very different. Aim for a mix of overdresses and underdresses.
** A dress is a complete outfit, so if you want a wild color or pattern that doesn't match much else, that's a good place for it. If you want to layer it sometimes, remember that plain neutrals go with most things, and a solid of any single color from a multicolor print will match it.
Of course, you don't have to be feminine to wear dresses, skirts, or layers. Some people of other genders do too. The article just focused on curvy girls.
I have some thoughts on layers from my perspective in Renaissance / fantasy / Pagan garb as well as a passing familiarity with fashion history in general. If you want to explore this further, ask your local librarian for the fashion history books. These are big, coffeetable books with lots of colorplates to show fashions in different times and places. Things you can do with dresses and layers ...
* Outer dress over inner dress.
** Usually the outer dress is fancier while the inner dress is white, unbleached, or a solid color.
** The outer dress can cover a lot of the inner dress or only some of it.
* Blazer, cardigan, duster, or bodice over dress.
** The dress can show through in places.
** The top can completely cover the dress, making it like a skirt.
** Add pockets! Blazers and cardigans often have pockets. If sewing a women's blazer, get inspiration from men's suitcoats regarding pockets, as theirs are much better.
* Apron over dress.
** This can be plain cloth to keep the nice dress cleaner.
** It can also be fancy cloth over a plain dress.
** Aprons can be half or full length.
** Add pockets! Most aprons have several, and there are often dedicated features like a pen loop. Check out gathering aprons and egg aprons.
* Dress, tunic, or top and skirt over bottoms.
** A divided underlayer lets you wear a shorter skirt or longer shirt without sacrificing comfort or modesty.
** Bloomers are sort of like loose pants. They are very practical without binding.
** Divided skirts have many names, but basically look like a skirt, concealing the fact that they have legs.
* Skirt over or under a dress. This approach can save a lot of money on expensive fabric or trim.
** Usually a patterned skirt over a plain underdress.
** Overskirts can be raised in one or more areas to show the underskirt, usually tucked into waistband or belt.
** An underskirt can be plain with just a fancy bottom of lace or trim.
** Some skirts are made from tatters or ribbons.
** Skirts are among the easiest garments to fit if they have a drawstring waist, easily expanding or contracting to fit your body.
** You can also adjust the length by wearing them at different heights. Some convertible garments can be worn as a maxiskirt or minidress, a miniskirt or tube top.
** A pocket between these layers will be secret, but easily accessible through the waistbands! Use this to hide things like cash, a passport, etc. You can also drop a belt pouch between them.
* Belt or harness over dress.
** These are often used to control layers, such as making several skirts lie flat over the hips.
** They can add movement, interest, even sound effects with bells or coins.
** Belt pouches, loops, snaffle rings, etc. give you a place to secure objects.
* Loose garments are very forgiving if your body changes shape or size, or your just like free movement.
** "All garb is maternity garb!" (It's quicker to list the few fitted garments, like the cotehardie, that aren't.)
** A chemise can be used as a nightgown.
** Use drawstrings, elastic, cloak pins, belts, buttons, tucking, etc. to adjust sizing.
* Layers make temperature control much easier.
** For this purpose, choose a mix of light and heavy fabrics.
** Warm weather: cotton gauze, linen, bamboo, hemp, silk.
** Cold weather: denim, canvas, wool, corduroy, brocade, velvet.
** Few synthetics are ideal for layering. Most trap moisture, and the "wicking" ones tend to get slimy. :P However, an outer "windbreaker" layer to block wind and rain can be useful. Look for one with vents under flaps.
** Make sure you can add or remove layers easily.
* Think about where you want patterns if you wear any.
** A dress can be a single-item outfit, especially in warm weather, so not all dresses have to match.
** If you have many different patterns in your layers, it's harder to match than if you choose a few favorites (stripes, plaids, florals, polka dots, etc.).
** If you keep patterns to one or two places (cardigans, overdresses, or overskirts) then it's easier to match than if you have them in every layer.
** Buying more than one piece in exactly the same pattern makes it much easier to mix and match, as long as you have solids in the same or compatible colors. Look for racks where you can find a cardigan, dress, blouse, skirt, and/or pants that match.
* Think about what colors you want. It helps to compose a palette (or several) for your wardrobe.
** Make sure you have plenty of base colors that go with most or all your clothes. These are usually neutrals, and it's easier to match if you stick to ivory-tan-brown (for warm skin tones) or white-gray-black (for cool skin tones) than mixing warm and cool neutrals, although most neutrals look fine together. However, some people choose a different base; I had one teacher who dressed entirely in purple.
** Think about what accent colors you want. If you stick to similar types (e.g. pastels, earth tones, jewel tones) then it's easier to mix and match than if you have colors of very different types.
** Another approach is to make subsets of clothes that go together, so you might have autumn clothes in earth tones and spring clothes in pastels. This also works with accessories, so you could have sets of gold and silver jewelry, or scarves matched with shoes or socks in several colors. Different sets of accessories can make the same plain dress look very different. Aim for a mix of overdresses and underdresses.
** A dress is a complete outfit, so if you want a wild color or pattern that doesn't match much else, that's a good place for it. If you want to layer it sometimes, remember that plain neutrals go with most things, and a solid of any single color from a multicolor print will match it.
Of course, you don't have to be feminine to wear dresses, skirts, or layers. Some people of other genders do too. The article just focused on curvy girls.