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ysabetwordsmith ([personal profile] ysabetwordsmith) wrote2021-01-30 08:37 pm

Learn How to Sew

A discussion about brafail led to a discussion about learning to sew and making your own clothes. It is much easier to fit the clothes to your body than make your body fit the clothes. Fuck fashion! You deserve to be comfortable. Also, it's often cheaper to make your own, you get exactly what you want, and it usually lasts longer.

I highly recommend sewing. Do try both hand sewing and machine sewing. The latter is faster, but not everyone is good with mechanical things, and some materials or techniques are easier to do by hand. Basic sewing, however, is quite easy for most people, and you can do a LOT with it.


The Basics

Start by learning some basics. These are free online sources, but you can also find excellent and comprehensive sewing books at a fabric store: several pattern companies make one.

https://www.instructables.com/How-to-Sew./

https://www.wikihow.com/Category:Sewing

https://crazylittleprojects.com/sewing-for-beginners-learn-to-sew/

https://blog.treasurie.com/how-to-sew/

https://www.allfreesewing.com/

https://www.allfreesewing.com/Basics-and-Tutorials

https://www.allfreesewing.com/index.php/hct/Latest-Free-Sewing-eBooks


Books to Buy

If you have a library card, use it. If not, use reviews to help identify books you will like.

https://elizabethmadethis.com/sewing-books-for-beginners-that-are-actually-helpful/

https://seekatesew.com/25-must-have-sewing-books/

https://www.thecreativecurator.com/best-sewing-books-with-patterns/

https://www.goodreads.com/shelf/show/sewing


Measurements

Learn to take good, detailed measurements. Simple garments may only need 2-3. Complex garments can need over a dozen. If you have odd body shapes you will need to account for those. Carry your measurements with you for pattern shopping. Nothing will fit without good measurements.

https://www.marthastewart.com/1504765/tricks-to-taking-accurate-body-measurements

https://blog.treasurie.com/sewing-measurements-for-sewing/

https://www.ageberry.com/how-to-take-body-measurements-sewing/

http://www.sewing.org/html/mensmeasure.html

https://www.allfreesewing.com/Sewing-for-Men/Sewing-for-Men-How-to-Take-Mens-Measurements

Men's Body Measurements Chart

https://doitbetteryourself.club/blog/how-to-measure-your-child-for-sewing/

https://www.muellerundsohn.com/en/allgemein/baby-sleepwear

https://www.threadingmyway.com/2015/07/measurement-chart-template.html


Tools and Supplies
Understand the materials you will be working with.

Start with the basics.

When you need more, here they are.

http://seamstressconfessions.blogspot.com/2012/11/how-to-make-travel-sewing-kit.html

http://aspoonfulofsugardesigns.com/2018/02/travel-sewing-kit-pattern/

https://embroiderypress.com/best-travel-sewing-kit/

https://derangeddesigns.com/pages/fabric-guide

https://www.fabricsyard.com/print-by-the-yard-blog/the-ultimate-fabric-guide-2019/

https://www.sewingpartsonline.com/blog/ultimate-thread-reference-guide/

https://nymag.com/strategist/article/best-sewing-machines.html

https://www.maxiaids.com/sewing-aids

https://independentliving.com/daily-living-aids/sewing-crafts/


Repairs

Save money and your favorite clothes by fixing what's broke. Most needed repairs are minor and easy.
* Test the fabric before sewing a rip. If the seam is torn, it's almost always fixable. But if the fabric is torn, it may be worn out. Gently tug at one end of the tear. If it tears more, throw the garment in the ragbag. If not, you can probably fix it.
* Good clothes are easier to fix than cheap, shoddy ones. Buy quality if you can find it. Buy sturdy fabric to make clothes.

https://lifehacker.com/how-to-repair-clothes-1843419199

https://sewguide.com/repair-clothes/

https://www.muccycloud.com/2020/04/beginners-clothes-fixing-guide.html


Patterns

Begin with patterns. They are easiest for novices to work with. Look for patterns using woven fabric and few pieces at first. Maximize bang-for-buck by choosing patterns with many variations. Often a skirt can have several lengths, while a top may have different sleeves.

https://sewobsessed.offsetwarehouse.com/2015/07/14/the-best-sewing-pattern-makers/

https://christinehaynes.com/blog/2016/3/24/my-20-favorite-beginner-sewing-patterns

http://www.themakeden.com/2014/02/janet-sews-top-twelve-independent-pattern-companies.html

https://sewingreport.com/2017/07/indie-sewing-pattern-companies-the-good-the-bad-live-show/

https://sewguide.com/sewing-patterns-sites/

https://surefitdesigns.com/pages/free-stuff

https://mellysews.com/free-patterns/

https://www.allfreesewing.com/Dress-Patterns/Free-Plus-Size-Sewing-Patterns

https://plussize.lovetoknow.com/Free_Sewing_Patterns_for_Plus_Size_Women

https://curvysewingcollective.com/resources/plus-size-patterns/

https://petitepluspatterns.com/

https://www.mariadenmark.com/2014/05/sewing-patterns-petites/

https://www.allfreesewing.com/Sewing-for-Men

https://sewing.craftgossip.com/50-pdf-sewing-patterns-for-men/2016/12/05/

https://www.allfreesewing.com/Sew-for-Kids

https://www.fleecefun.com/free-child-clothing-sewing-patterns-and-tutorials/

https://www.folkwear.com/collections/ethnic

http://worldapparelstore.blogspot.com/2019/11/free-african-dress-patterns-for-sewing.html

https://stopatternov.com/african-sewing-patterns/

https://www.crazycrow.com/american-indian-patterns

https://so-sew-easy.com/asian-sewing-patterns-roundup/


Don't forget historic patterns. Some stuff there is better than some modern stuff. Also most period clothing, except the court stuff, is maternity / plus size.

https://www.folkwear.com/

https://mymodernmet.com/free-historical-costume-patterns/

https://www.simplicity.com/simplicity-storefront-catalog/patterns/costumes/historical/

This quarter-circle pattern with instructions can be used to make a half-circle, 3/4 circle, full circle, or circle+ skirt. This version with a waistband is for heavy fabric or leather.

Do you want underwear that doesn't look slutty and can be made comfortable? Historic undies! Hint: bloomers were invented by feminists fed the fuck up with stupid clothes.

This is a simple 4-piece chemise that works as a shirt, dress, or nightgown. Other versions include more pieces with gussets (historic) or sleeves that curve to meet the armholes (modern).

https://www.cs.vassar.edu/~capriest/viktunic.html

This medieval dress pattern uses almost every inch of the fabric, for when it's $$$/yard. An excellent intermediate project, as it has many pieces but almost all the seams are straight.

https://greycompany.com.au/about/costumes/tunic-and-pants/

http://babayagamusic.com/Dance-Costumes/harem-pants-and-pantaloons.htm

http://babayagamusic.com/Dance-Costumes/index.htm

http://milieux.com/category.php?catid=5


Where it all started: make your own bra or other breast/chest holder. Do you want to look hawt? You deserve to, you sexy thing! Do you just want to be comfy? You deserve that too.

https://atfirstblushpatterns.com/top-19-free-bra-patterns/

https://www.thesprucecrafts.com/panties-undergarments-patterns-2977352

https://hellosewing.com/free-lingerie-sewing-patterns/

https://curvysewingcollective.com/bra-patterns-for-large-busts/

https://atfirstblushpatterns.com/17-plus-size-bra-and-bralette-patterns/


Bodices and corsets support your boobs from below instead of hanging them from your shoulders. This is often more comfortable, especially for big boobs. See more below in Drafting.

https://www.ralphpink.com/free-corset-pattern-half-boned-stay/

https://www.sewyourtv.com/free-corset-pattern/

http://sidneyeileen.com/sewing-2/sewing/corset-making/#.YBYdoDFKg4c


Need a replacement tata? Sew, crochet, or knit your own! You can also make extra if you feel like yours are too small, or you want more than the human-standard two.


Pockets
If you want to know what size they should really be, measure menswear. At minimum they should hold your hand, and your phone if you have one. Think about what else you want to put in pockets and measure that. Empower yourself with pockets!

https://www.keralapool.com/photos/different-types-of-patch-pockets.html

https://so-sew-easy.com/unlined-patch-pocket-tutorial/

https://www.ctpub.com/blog/add-a-patch-pocket-to-any-garment/

https://blog.wafflepatterns.com/post/153255478591/how-to-sew-welt-pocket-for-yuzu-coat-and-any-other

https://blog.wafflepatterns.com/post/131150135811/free-flap-pocket-pattern-and-tutorial

https://blog.wafflepatterns.com/post/148343301746/free-seam-pocket-pattern-and-tutorial-here-is-a

https://blog.wafflepatterns.com/post/153255478591/how-to-sew-welt-pocket-for-yuzu-coat-and-any-other

https://www.straight-grain.com/wp-content/uploads/2015/11/pockets-01.jpg

https://www.threadsmagazine.com/2017/12/21/low-profile-pocket-pattern

https://sewguide.com/cargo-pocket-pattern-tutorial/

https://lifesewsavory.com/cargo-pocket-pattern-and-tutorial/

https://sewnorthco.com/diy-carpenter-pants-add-on/


Drafting and Slopers (Base Patterns, Blocks)

Once you can make a top and a bottom, start expanding into customized design. It is not actually difficult to make your own simple patterns. Making highly tailored patterns with a lot of pieces is more complex, but you could work up to that if desired. At this stage I recommend getting a roll of butcher paper, craft paper, or whatever the store calls long wide rolls of paper. Use this to make patterns. Tissue patterns are fragile. If you plan to use it more than once, draft or copy it onto heavy paper. Tight budget? Use paper bags and tape them together. Really heavy-duty use like quilt piece patterns or pocket patterns? Use cardstock or light singleply cardboard. Some quilt patterns are available in flexible or rigid plastic, also a good choice.

http://isntthatsew.org/pattern-making-101/

https://tasha.gallowglass.org/sca/handouts/aprondresses/

http://littlestonecape.blogspot.com/2012/10/easy-peasy-one-piece-childs-pirate-shirt.html

http://www.renaissancetailor.com/demos_patterndraft.htm

http://www.cardinal-creations.com/classes/drafting-a-bodice-doublet-pattern

http://sidneyeileen.com/sewing-2/sewing/corset-drafting/

http://sidneyeileen.com/sewing-2/sewing/corset-making/corded-regency-corset/

http://myscagarb.blogspot.com/2012/11/kirtle-pattern-class-handout.html


https://www.dresspatternmaking.com/blocks/blocks-or-slopers-the-basics

https://curvysewingcollective.com/buying-and-using-a-sloper/

https://www.craftsy.com/post/making-a-sloper/

https://www.threadsmagazine.com/2008/11/02/the-merits-of-a-basic-fitting-pattern

https://theinspiredsewist.com/sloper-pattern/

https://www.sewyourtv.com/how-to-make-a-bodice-sloper/

https://www.sewyourtv.com/sloper-skirt/

https://www.dresspatternmaking.com/blocks/drafting-patternmaking-blocks/pants-block

https://www.moodfabrics.com/blog/how-to-draft-a-sleeve-sloper/


Sewing Dummies (Fashion Forms, Dress Forms, Mannequins, etc.)
A dummy is very helpful for complex patterns or challenging bodies. You can pay a lot for one, or just make your own.

https://www.sewingchanelstyle.com/blog-en/all-about-sewing-mannequins

https://www.sewmucheasier.com/how-to-choose-the-right-mannequin-comparison/

https://www.tillyandthebuttons.com/2016/11/dress-form-mannequin.html

https://www.instructables.com/How-to-Use-a-Dress-Form/

https://designmycostume.com/make-your-own-dress-form/


Adaptive and Genderfree Sewing
Make clothes for the body you have. Many adaptive garments are just regular clothes with a different fastener (velcro, magnets, etc.) or pull-on. One of the best genderfucks is making a garment associated with one gender (e.g. a dress) in a material associated with another (e.g. ventilated sport fabric).

https://thecaregiverspace.org/the-family-caregivers-guide-to-adaptive-clothing/

https://www.threadsmagazine.com/2011/07/20/style-adaptations-are-a-must-when-sewing-for-the-disabled

https://www.sewwhatalicia.com/adaptive-clothing-for-wheelchair-users/

https://www.wildginger.com/wiki/adaptiveclothingpatterns.htm

http://adaptingcreatively.blogspot.com/2010/12/for-those-who-sew-favorite-wheelchair.html

https://www.thedailysew.com/2018/08/how-to-alter-a-sewing-pattern-for-scoliosis/


https://wendyward.wordpress.com/2020/08/11/gender-neutral-sewing-an-interview-in-simply-sewing-magazine/

https://thesewcialists.com/2019/01/18/gender-bent-sewing/

https://www.moodfabrics.com/blog/category/free-sewing-patterns/menswear-unisex-patterns/

https://andreasnotebook.com/unisex-sewing-patterns-for-kids/


Other Thoughts

If you want pockets, you can have them. You can have as many pockets as you want, as big as you want, whatever you can make the material do. Experiment with several patterns for patch and insert pockets until you find what you like. Do learn to make pleated/cargo pockets! \o/

Learn to make protected seams. They make things last a lot longer. A French seam encloses the seam but leaves it sticking out, less work than some but often uncomfortable. A flat-felled seam lies flat and is very strong; you see it on jeans. Turn and stitch is tidy, flat, and attractive.

http://blog.bambersew.com/sewing-guides/basic-seam-types/

https://www.moodfabrics.com/blog/all-about-sewing-seams/

https://sewguide.com/how-to-sew-seams/

https://www.sewmucheasier.com/how-to-finish-seams-without-an-overlocker/

The easy alternative is to buy a serger but they are $$$$. If you have a sewing machine with a good amount of stitch variations, it should do zig-zag, which works on most fabrics. Pinking shears only work on some and the result is sloppy.

Drawstrings are awesome if you want an adjustible wrist, ankle, neck, or waist closure but not elastic. You can make these invisible or decorative. I often put bells or beads on mine; tassels work too.

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